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Introduction

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Exploring contemporary fashion imagery shows that the mythical or stereotypical connotations of tweeds form a useful starting point for a deeper investigation into their history. For example, an advertisementsadvertisement in Vogue magazinesVogue for Lauren, RalphRalph Lauren’s autumn/winter 2012 womenswear collection featured outfits that were strongly influenced by British country house partiescountry clothing and 1920s fashion, including fitted jackets and jodhpurs in tweed, worn with “mannish

Tweed, Male Fashion, and Modern Masculinities, 1851–1918

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Tweed trouserstrousers in “shepherd’s check” patternshepherd’s checks and other fancy woolensfancy patterns remained popular in Britain and Europe in the 1850s and 1860s.JamesLocke, “A Few Facts on the Tweed Trade,” The Border Advertiser, September 18, 1863, p. 3; CliffordGulvin, The Tweedmakers: A History of the Scottish Fancy Woollen Industry 1600–1914 (Newton Abbot: David & Charles, 1973), p. 80; FaridChenoune, A History of Men’s Fashion (Paris: Flammarion, 1993), pp. 84–5. The Juror’s Report

Suits You: Men and Tweed, 1919–1952

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Following the First World War, as Jenkins, DavidJenkins clarifies, there was an immediate boom in the wool textiles trade, which for a brief period generated high profits and labor demand.DavidJenkins, “Wool Textiles in the Twentieth Century,” in DavidJenkins, The Cambridge History of Western Textiles, II (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003), p. 995. In the company history of Crombie, J. & J. (company)J. & J. Crombie of Aberdeen these developments are described as follows: there was a tr

Menswear Presentations

Linda Tain

Source: Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Designers. Fourth Edition, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Children's wear presentationsportfolioPutting together the menswear portfolio requires very much the same approach as any other fashion design specialty, yet these portfolios do feature specific qualities related to industry needs and requirements. A professional portfolio generally focuses on a specialty area and look, including but not limited to the following: traditional/tailored classics, casual separates, contemporary sportswear, and formal wear. The design sketches in Figure 9.4a-d, all ha

The History of Knitwear

Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza and Marilyn Hefferen

Source: Designing a Knitwear Collection. From Inspiration to Finished Garments, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Knitting is defined as “the art of interlacing a single thread, in a series of connected loops, by the use of needles to make fabric.”Milton Grass, History of Hosiery (New York: Fairchild, 1955), 104. It's hard to believe that in the third century, hand knitters exclusively used four to five needles rather than the two-needle method, as we know knitting to be. Modern technology uses as many as one thousand computer-controlled needles in one knitting bed alone, sometimes with more than four beds s

Presentation Trends for Knitwear

Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza and Marilyn Hefferen

Source: Designing a Knitwear Collection. From Inspiration to Finished Garments, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The purpose of your portfolio is to clearly represent your skills and highlight your best work. In an interview, your résumé states your qualifications, and your portfolio represents your mastery of skills you bring to the job. Be focused and concise in what you include in your portfolio. Do not show volumes of work. Show only your best work.

Menswear Through the Ages

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

It is only the modern that ever becomes old-fashioned.

Design Research and Inspiration

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

You can say that designing is quite easy; the difficulty lies in finding a new way to explore beauty.

Tailoring Traditions

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

If people turn to look at you on the street, you are not well dressed.

Sportswear, Knit, and Print

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Men's fashions all start as sports clothes and progress to the great occasions of state. The tail coat, which started out as a hunting coat, is just finishing such a journey. The tracksuit is just beginning one.

Design Development for Menswear

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

A man should look as if he’s bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and forgotten all about them.

Menswear Presentations

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

There are three responses toa piece of design—yes, no,and wow! Wow is the one toaim for.

The Birth of Paris Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Le travail des modes est un art: art chéri, triomphant, qui dans ce siècle, a reçu des honneurs, des distinctions. Cet art entre dans le palais des Rois, [et] y reçoit un accueil flatteur.

Menswear

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Women's clothes have been influenced by menswear as far back as the 1930s, when Marlene Dietrich was photographed wearing an adaptation of a man's suit. Additionally, Yves Saint Laurent has been designing tuxedo suits for women for the last 30 years.

Fashion Apparel Women’s, Men’s, Children’s, and Teen’s

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: In Fashion, 3rd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Of necessity, the women’s, men’s, children’s, and teens’ fashion industry exists in a constant state of change, reacting on an ongoing basis to the consumer’s tastes and styles, to an increasingly global economy, and to new technology. It is an industry that truly thrives on change and novelty.

Menswear Garments

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Source: Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Measuring menswear garments is very much like measuring misses/women’s wear garments. Although there are a few measurement points that vary, most of what you have learned up to this point may be applied to measuring menswear garments; for that reason, the points of measure have not been repeated in this chapter. What you will find are examples for practical application. Eight of the most classic menswear garments are shown in spec form with basic points of measure and general specifications. The

Tailoring

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Through the years, a few regional styles of tailoring have evolved, influenced by differences in use, fashionable appearance as well as climate. Each school has developed a unique heritage in its approach to the tailoring process. The following, presenting a brief synopsis of the various geographical schools of tailoring, should serve as a reminder of the fact that the techniques presented in this book remain very much only guidelines, open for experimentation by the practiced tailor.

The Pattern

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The following are standard measurements taken by tailors, and used by them to draft patterns which will fit their clients as closely and as comfortably as possible. In conjunction with the measurements, the tailor also notes important information about the client’s body: whether his posture is stooped or overly erect; whether his shoulders are square or sloped; whether his buttocks are full or flat, whether his stomach protrudes; whether one hip or one shoulder is higher than the other, etc.

The Fit

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The next step is to cut the basic pattern pieces from a good quality prototyping fabric and to check the fit. Tailors do not always use muslin (also known as calico) for this process. Instead, we recommend using a cheaper wool cloth, which will behave more similarly to your chosen final fabric. The chest and shoulder area of your toile should be reinforced with interfacing, either fusible or quickly hand-basted in place.

Fabric

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

If you want the very finest fabric for classic tailoring, choose wool. There is an endless variety of beautiful fabrics available to us today, most of which will respond favorably to certain tailoring features. There is no reason to limit your wardrobe to one fabric. However, full tailoring procedures (canvas, haircloth, tape, etc.) will produce their best results for wool. Silk and linen are close seconds.

Layout and Cutting

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The Jacket

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

If there is a dart on the jacket, at this point in your tailoring procedure it is indicated by four tailor tacks.

The Pants

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The pants can often be held in lower esteem in a suit when compared to the jacket. This may be due to the extensive amount of detail and attention placed in the jacket; however, a great suit cannot exist without pants that have been carefully constructed and shaped to fit the client.

The Vest

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Alterations

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Because of constant changes in fashion, a frequent tailoring alteration is the tapering of jacket lapels.

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