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Punk Style Motivations and Explanations

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

There is no simple way to answer the question “why does someone dress in a punk style?” Motivations cannot be entirely quantified, however there are dominant themes that drive many to make stylistic choices toward a punk look. Punk style is a way to express individual identity, as it addresses internal emotions as well as lifestyle choices and position within society. The individual choosing punk dress may be expressing internal feelings as well as trying to find external recognition for his or h

Punk Style and Society

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Dress products presenting punk imagery have become commercialized and widely distributed, although that does not necessarily strip them of all punk value. The design symbolism in punk style is affected by culture, consumptionfashionfashion consumption, and diffusionproduct diffusionproduct diffusion. Judy Attfield (2000) clarifies that the entirety of an object is more than its tactile and visible features, and also more than the social themes and ideas represented in the look of its design. The

Preparing for Success in Apparel Fitting and Alteration

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Achieving a fabulous fit requires a lot of work. It is not just a matter of following a few rules or taking a few measurements. Fitting is a process, with a definite beginning and an end. The classic fitting process is learned. It requires understanding and good judgment. Fitting expertise comes with knowledge backed up by experience. The more you do it, the better you get, as you educate your eye to recognize all of the necessary clues and cues. The fitting process does become familiar, and part

Alternative Methods of Pattern Alteration

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Fitting expert Jan Minott wrote on this very topic in 1978, in her text Fitting Commercial Patterns. In Chapter 5 she wrote, “Most of the familiar pattern ‘alteration’ methods handed down from book to book over the years have served to lower the standards of educational clothing courses. They produce poorly fitted garments and are a hindrance to the teacher who tries to make them work…. When alterations that perform poorly continue to be taught, surely it is an injustice to the student.”

Personalized Patterns and Slopers

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

When the left side of the body differs significantly from the right side, the fitting pattern must be duplicated (traced or photocopied), thus creating a pattern for each side of the body. Each side is then altered separately, as necessary (see Figure 7.1).

Bodices

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

This chapter presents measurement, fitting, and alteration procedures on the upper torso and bodice.

Sleeves

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

This chapter presents measurement, fitting, and alteration procedures on the arms and sleeves. Use this chapter as a ready-reference to fitting problems occurring in sleeves.

Skirts and Pants

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

This section presents measurement, fitting, and alte\ration procedures on the lower torso, legs, skirts, and pants. Use this section as a ready-reference to fitting problems occurring in skirts and pants.

Zero waste fashion design: the basics

Timo Rissanen and Holly McQuillan (eds)

Source: Zero Waste Fashion Design, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

There are five primary criteria to negotiate during the zero waste fashion design process: aesthetics, fit, cost, fabric waste, and manufacturability. These depend on context. Just as different sets of criteria may be appropriate in different contexts, the criteria may bear different weights depending on context and the stage of design process you are in. However, the elimination of fabric waste should never be used to justify a compromise in aesthetics or fit; nor should it result in undue incre

Planning a Design and Selecting Fabric

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: A Guide to Fashion Sewing, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

By studying the information in this chapter, the designer will be able to:

Vintage Style and Mediated Memories: Sixties DIY

Heike Jenss

Source: Fashioning Memory. Vintage Style and Youth Culture, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

original clothes from the sixtiesIn spite of the importance attributed to old, original second-hand clothes, it is not the case that all clothes worn by sixties stylers are actual survivors from the 1960s. A restriction to old clothes would lead to a rather reduced wardrobe, since not all clothes desired are available any longer—or may have ever existed in the past. The rarityrarity of old clothes that fit with the current tastetastes and contemporary interest in sixties style makes it essential

Individualizing Japanese Student Uniforms

Brian J. McVeigh

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Asia, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

In some cultures, sociopolitical environments encourage theatricality, rituality, and selves that are self-consciously performed, so that the bifurcation of the self into genuine expressions and social masks is more salient. The reasons behind this “splitting of the self” vary from place to place and from period to period. In any case, the need to separate the personal self from the public persona, backstage orchestrations from front-stage performances, and behind-the-curtains from before-the-foo

Creating a Variant

Catherine Black

Source: Modaris and Diamino for Apparel Design, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The variant window contains a title bar, menu bar, graphic area, and spreadsheet. The title bar can be used to move the variant window out of the way when selecting pattern pieces. The menu bar contains drop-down menus with commands specific to creating and modifying variants. Click the name of the menu to open a drop-down menu. Move the cursor down through the drop-down menu to highlight the desired command and then click on the command. The graphic area displays the pattern pieces selected for

Strategies to Improve Fit

Judith A. Rasband and Elizabeth L.G. Liechty

Source: Fabulous Fit. Speed Fitting and Alteration, 2nd Edition, 2006, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

REALITY CHECK: Although some people are overwhelmed by detailed evaluations of fit, others rely on exactly that. Depending on your nature or your purpose, there is need for both types of evaluation and that’s what follows.

Speed Methods for Fitting and Altering the Pattern

Judith A. Rasband and Elizabeth L.G. Liechty

Source: Fabulous Fit. Speed Fitting and Alteration, 2nd Edition, 2006, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

REALITY CHECK: Although it does not matter in which direction body measurements are taken, it is imperative that pattern measurements be taken in the sequence and the direction instructed.

Bodices

Judith A. Rasband and Elizabeth L.G. Liechty

Source: Fabulous Fit. Speed Fitting and Alteration, 2nd Edition, 2006, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Sleeves

Judith A. Rasband and Elizabeth L.G. Liechty

Source: Fabulous Fit. Speed Fitting and Alteration, 2nd Edition, 2006, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Skirts & Pants

Judith A. Rasband and Elizabeth L.G. Liechty

Source: Fabulous Fit. Speed Fitting and Alteration, 2nd Edition, 2006, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Design Piracy within the Fashion Industry

Jongeun Rhee , Kim K. P. Johnson

Source: Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases

Level: Introductory

Business case

Williams-Sonoma, Inc. is a premier specialty retailer that puts significant resources into the development of creative and distinctive products that appeal to its upscale customers. Over the years, Williams-Sonoma has developed a series of distinctive signature patterns for a line of holiday items, including stockings, tree skirts, and table linens. Target is a discount retailer with the corporate tagline of “design for everyone.” Several years after Pottery Barn, a retail outlet owned by William

Elegance Uses Data Mining to Solve Vendor Fit Problems

Ellen McKinney , Steven McKinney
Revised by: Nancy J. Rabolt , Judy K. Miler

Source: Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases

Level: Intermediate

Business case

A luxury specialty retailer sells well-known branded merchandise in addition to a private label of their development with a luxury knit apparel vendor. The retailer and vendor manufacturing the private label have always had good relationships working closely together to develop a product that has sold well. A problem occurred for the retailer when the vendor made design changes to their popular knit suit, making the arms tighter, which caused an increase in the retailer’s cost of their alteration

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