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What You Need to Sew and Overlock Knits

Sharon Czachor

Source: Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

In general, the term “laying out the fabric” refers to the positioning of the pattern pieces onto the fabric (Figure 2.1). In production a marker is created that indicates the layout of the pattern pieces and is used as a guide for cutting the fabric for production. The pattern layout can be done manually or on a computer and helps to estimate the amount of yardage required. Pattern pieces are arranged to take into consideration three aspects of the fabric: structure, design, and width. The patt

Stitching Knits with a Sewing Machine

Sharon Czachor

Source: Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The supplies you will need to stitch samples of various stitches, seams, hems and techniques are a tape measure, scissors, marking utensil, seam ripper. You will also need the following.

T-shirts, Tops, and Sweaters

Sharon Czachor

Source: Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

T-shirts started out as undergarments, evolving from one-piece union suits into separate tops and bottoms. The tops were made long enough to tuck into the bottoms. Workers began wearing them as lightweight shirts in hot climates. They became popular in the United States when the U.S. Navy issued them to be worn under uniforms. It became common for sailors and marines to remove their uniform jackets while working on board submarines and tropical climates, wearing the T-shirt with uniform pants.

The Skill of Garment Embellishment

Zoya Nudelman

Source: The Art of Couture Sewing, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Embroidery has been around for centuries in artwork and clothing and as a form of decoration. Embroidery was a popular way for women in the Victorian era to express their ideas and beliefs at embroidery circles, tea parties, or book readings or in the comfort of their own homes. Since hand embroidery was one of the simplest options, it was taught to younger girls in order to pass along the tradition, to grow their skills with age, and for mother/daughter bonding opportunities. The Victorian era

The Art of Textiles

Zoya Nudelman

Source: The Art of Couture Sewing, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Textiles are used by designers as their primary creative medium. For the designer, choosing the right fabrics for a particular design is one of the most important aspects of designing. Often the fabric itself can inspire the design; for example, soft, drapey fabric can inspire the designer to focus on gathers and ruffles. Most experienced designers can picture their designs completely finished and ready to go before the garments are done, and each and every one understands the importance of match

Uses of Tools and Supplies

Zoya Nudelman

Source: The Art of Couture Sewing, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

There are many different kinds of needles made for all kinds of sewing purposes. Needles vary in size, shape, and eye. The best choice for a specific job is a needle that is fine enough to slip easily through the fabric and strong enough not to break or bend. Needles will help you succeed in your sewing. Remember to change needles regularly. It is suggested that every new garment should have a needle change, especially silk garments. Needle sizes in the United States are numbered from 8 to 19. Th

The Sewing Machine and Sewing Equipment

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: A Guide to Fashion Sewing, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Pressing is essential to complete a professional-looking garment. Using the correct pressing tools will ensure that all areas are correctly pressed to improve the overall look of the garment.

Embroidery

Kimberly A. Irwin

Source: Surface Design for Fabric, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Early needles and threads were used to sew together animal hides to make simple clothing and shelter, but eventually sewing evolved into a decorative craft. Embroidery developed throughout Siberia and the Middle East as early as the Bronze Age (4500–100 BC) and in China during the Zhou Dynasty (1100–256 BC).ClarkeSimon. Textile Design. London: Laurence King Publishing, 2011. It spread into Europe by the 12th century where it was found on religious banners and streamers bearing coats of arms. Embr

Yarns and Sewing Threads

Ingrid Johnson, Allen C. Cohen and Ajoy K. Sarkar

Source: J.J. Pizzuto’s Fabric Science, 11th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The formation of yarns is the next major step in the development of textile products. The simple process of making yarn predates recorded history. Cave dwellers used hair fiber from animals that were twisted into coarse yarn for ropes and nets. Eventually they refined their techniques to make yarn capable of being intertwined to produce crude fabrics.

ASTM and ISO Seam Classifications

Janace E. Bubonia

Source: Apparel Quality. A Guide To Evaluating Sewn Products, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

A seam is formed by joining together two or more layers of fabric by stitching, sealing, welding, or thermal bonding. The primary function of a seam is to secure garment panels and components together, and provide the appropriate amount of strength, durability, and extendibility for the apparel item without causing failure of the fabric or seam when pressure or force is applied. The effectiveness of a seam relies upon the balance between the construction and strength of the seam which must be abl

ASTM and ISO Stitch Classifications

Janace E. Bubonia

Source: Apparel Quality. A Guide To Evaluating Sewn Products, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

For garments that contain stitching, thread is an essential component for garment assembly and must be properly selected. Factors that should be taken into consideration when making thread selections for garment decoration or assembly include the fiber content, construction, and weight of fabrics to be sewn; the desired seam construction and seam strength; the type of sewing equipment to be used; product end use and desired performance; and useful life of the product. These aspects can affect the

ASTM and ISO Stitch and Seam Classifications Lab

Janace E. Bubonia

Source: Apparel Quality Lab Manual, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Chapters 6 and 7 of Apparel Quality: A Guide to Evaluating Sewn Products focus on standards for designating stitches and seams used in the apparel industry for garment assembly. Knowledge of thread and fabric construction, stitch classifications, and seam efficiency in relation to the garments end use helps designers and product developers make choices appropriate for the assembly of apparel items.

Planning

Jennifer Prendergast

Source: Sewing Techniques. An introduction to construction skills within the design process, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

From conception to catwalk, the fashion industry thrives on the energy and buzz of each collection; therefore, adhering to deadlines is important. For all fashion designers, planning and preparation are essential. Prior planning allows the designer to concentrate on the creative process without any distractions. Within the fashion supply chain there are different approaches to planning but in most companies a computerized critical path is used. However, you may wish to use a more simple form, whe

Slovak Embroidery

Oı’ga Danglová

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The oldest archeological evidence about embroidery in the territory of Slovakia dates to the third century b.c.e. In the Middle Ages, embroidery appeared on religious textiles and was worked by professional craftsmen. The first archive records about embroidery guilds in the territory of Slovakia date to the fifteenth century, referring to guilds of silk embroiderers in Košice and Bratislava. Inspired by the Renaissance penchant for luxury, embroidery was applied to clothing of the aristocracy and

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