Bloomsbury Fashion Central -

The Berg Companion to Fashion

eBook

Valerie Steele (ed)

ISBN:

978-1-4742-6471-6 (online)

978-1-8478-8592-0 (hardback)

978-1-8478-8563-0 (paperback)

978-1-4742-6470-9 (epdf)

Published:

2010

Buy this book bloomsbury.com

Abstract

An essential reference for students, curators and scholars of fashion, cultural studies, and the expanding range of disciplines that see fashion as imbued with meaning far beyond the material.

Over 300 in-depth entries covering designers, articles of clothing, key concepts and styles.

Edited and introduced by Valerie Steele, a scholar who has revolutionized the study of fashion, and who has been described by The Washington Post as one of “fashion’s brainiest women.”

Derided by some as frivolous, even dangerous, and celebrated by others as art, fashion is anything but a neutral topic. Behind the hype and the glamour is an industry that affects all cultures of the world. A potent force in the global economy, fashion is also highly influential in everyday lives, even amongst those who may feel impervious.

This handy volume is a one-stop reference for anyone interested in fashion - its meaning, history and theory. From Avedon to Codpiece, Dandyism to the G-String, Japanese Fashion to Subcultures, Trickle down to Zoot Suit, The Berg Companion to Fashion provides a comprehensive overview of this most fascinating of topics and will serve as the benchmark guide to the subject for many years to come.

Front matter
- Preface pp. xvii–xviii
A
- Academic Dress pp. 1–2
- Activewear pp. 2–4
- Actors and Actresses, Impact on Fashion pp. 4–5
- Adrian pp. 5–7
- Aesthetic Dress pp. 7–9
- African American Dress pp. 9–11
- Afro Hairstyle pp. 11–14
- Afrocentric Fashion pp. 14–17
- Alaïa, Azzedine pp. 17–18
- Albini, Walter pp. 19–20
- A-Line Dress pp. 20–21
- Amies, Hardy pp. 21–23
- Aprons pp. 23–25
- Armani, Giorgio pp. 25–27
- Armor pp. 27–30
- Art and Fashion pp. 30–35
- Art Nouveau and Art Deco pp. 36–38
- Avedon, Richard pp. 38–39
B
- Balenciaga, Cristóbal pp. 40–45
- Ball Dress pp. 45–47
- Ballet Costume pp. 47–49
- Balmain, Pierre p. 49
- Barbie pp. 49–50
- Barbier, Georges* pp. 51–53
- Barthes, Roland pp. 53–55
- Baudelaire, Charles pp. 55–57
- Baudrillard, Jean pp. 57–59
- Beards and Mustaches pp. 59–61
- Beaton, Cecil pp. 61–62
- Beene, Geoffrey pp. 62–65
- Belgian Fashion pp. 65–68
- Benjamin, Walter pp. 68–70
- Beret pp. 70–72
- Bertin, Rose pp. 72–73
- Best-Dressed Lists pp. 73–74
- Biba pp. 74–76
- Bicycle Clothing pp. 76–77
- Bikini pp. 77–79
- Blahnik, Manolo pp. 79–80
- Blass, Bill pp. 80–81
- Blazer pp. 81–82
- Bloomer Costume pp. 82–84
- Blouse pp. 84–86
- Body Piercing pp. 86–89
- Bohemian Dress pp. 89–91
- Boots pp. 91–93
- Bourdin, Guy pp. 93–96
- Boutique pp. 96–98
- Brands and Labels pp. 98–99
- Brassiere pp. 100–103
- Brummell, George (Beau)* pp. 103–105
- Burberry* pp. 105–106
- Bustle pp. 106–108
- Buttons pp. 108–111
C
- Cache-Sexe pp. 112–113
- Callot Sisters pp. 113–114
- Camouflage Cloth pp. 115–116
- Cardin, Pierre pp. 116–118
- Caricature and Fashion pp. 118–123
- Carnival Dress pp. 123–125
- Cashin, Bonnie pp. 125–127
- Celebrities pp. 127–130
- Ceremonial and Festival Costumes pp. 130–136
- Chalayan, Hussein pp. 136–138
- Chanel, Gabrielle (Coco) pp. 138–144
- Chemise Dress pp. 144–145
- Children’s Clothing pp. 145–149
- Clark, Ossie pp. 149–151
- Clothing, Costume, and Dress pp. 151–152
- Cocktail Dress pp. 153–154
- Codpiece p. 155
- Colonialism and Imperialism pp. 155–159
- Color in Dress pp. 159–162
- Comme des Garçons pp. 162–165
- Corset pp. 165–168
- Cosmetics, Non-Western pp. 168–170
- Cosmetics, Western pp. 170–175
- Costume Designer pp. 175–177
- Costume Jewelry pp. 177–180
- Courrèges, André pp. 180–181
- Court Dress pp. 182–184
- Cross-Dressing pp. 184–188
- Cunnington, C. Willett and Phillis pp. 188–190
D
- Dahl-Wolfe, Louise pp. 191–192
- Dance and Fashion pp. 192–195
- Dance Costume pp. 195–199
- Dandyism pp. 199–204
- Debutante Dress pp. 204–206
- Delaunay, Sonia pp. 206–208
- Demeulemeester, Ann pp. 208–210
- Demimonde pp. 210–213
- Demorest, Mme. pp. 213–215
- Department Store pp. 215–218
- Diana, Princess of Wales pp. 218–219
- Dior, Christian* pp. 219–223
- Dolce & Gabbana pp. 223–225
- Dress Codes pp. 225–226
- Dress for Success pp. 226–229
- Dress Reform pp. 229–231
E
- Earrings pp. 232–236
- Ecclesiastical Dress pp. 236–241
- Economics and Clothing pp. 241–246
- Empire Style pp. 247–248
- Equestrian Costume pp. 249–251
- Ethical Fashion and Ecofashion pp. 252–260
- Ethnic Dress pp. 260–263
- Ethnic Style in Fashion pp. 263–265
- Evening Dress pp. 265–267
F
- Fads pp. 268–270
- Fancy Dress pp. 270–272
- Fascist and Nazi Dress pp. 272–276
- Fashion Advertising pp. 276–279
- Fashion and Homosexuality pp. 279–283
- Fashion Designer pp. 283–285
- Fashion Editors pp. 285–286
- Fashion Icons pp. 286–288
- Fashion Illustrators pp. 288–290
- Fashion Industry pp. 290–293
- Fashion Journalism pp. 293–296
- Fashion Marketing and Merchandising pp. 296–297
- Fashion Models pp. 297–299
- Fashion Photography pp. 300–303
- Fashion Plates pp. 304–306
- Fashion Shows pp. 306–309
- Fashion, Attacks on pp. 309–312
- Fashion, Health, and Disease pp. 313–315
- Fashion, Historical Studies of pp. 316–320
- Fashion, Theories of pp. 321–328
- Fath, Jacques pp. 328–330
- Fendi pp. 330–332
- Fetish Fashion pp. 332–333
- Film and Fashion pp. 333–337
- First Ladies’ Gowns pp. 337–339
- Flappers pp. 339–341
- Flügel, J. C. pp. 341–343
- Fontana Sisters pp. 343–345
- Footbinding pp. 345–348
- Ford, Tom pp. 348–349
- Formal Wear, Men’s pp. 349–351
- Fortuny, Mariano pp. 351–353
- Fur pp. 353–355
- Future of Fashion pp. 355–357
- Futurist Fashion, Italian pp. 357–359
G
- Galliano, John* pp. 360–362
- Garments, International Trade in pp. 362–363
- Gaultier, Jean-Paul pp. 363–364
- Gernreich, Rudi pp. 364–367
- Gigli, Romeo* pp. 367–368
- Girdle pp. 368–371
- Givenchy, Hubert de pp. 371–372
- Globalization pp. 372–374
- Godey’s Lady’s Book pp. 375–376
- Goths pp. 376–377
- Grès, Mme pp. 378–379
- Grunge pp. 379–381
- G-String and Thong pp. 381–382
- Gucci pp. 382–383
H
- Hairdressers pp. 384–385
- Hairstyles pp. 385–390
- Halston pp. 390–392
- Hartnell, Norman pp. 392–393
- Haute Couture pp. 393–396
- Hawes, Elizabeth pp. 396–397
- Head, Edith p. 398
- Headdress pp. 398–402
- Helmet pp. 402–404
- Hermès pp. 404–406
- Heroin Chic pp. 406–408
- High Heels pp. 408–409
- Hijab pp. 409–413
- Hip-Hop Fashion pp. 413–417
- Hippie Style pp. 417–418
- Historicism and Historical Revival pp. 419–421
- Hollywood Style pp. 421–422
- Horst, Horst P. pp. 423–425
- Hoyningen-Huene, George pp. 425–427
- Hugo Boss pp. 427–428
I
- Iribe, Paul pp. 429–430
- Italian Fashion pp. 430–432
J
- James, Charles pp. 433–435
- Japanese Fashion* pp. 435–440
- Japonisme pp. 440–441
- Jeans pp. 442–445
- Jewelry pp. 445–452
- Jewish Dress pp. 452–456
K
- Kilt pp. 457–459
- Kimono pp. 459–463
- Klein, Calvin pp. 463–464
L
- Lacroix, Christian pp. 465–466
- Lagerfeld, Karl pp. 466–467
- Lanvin, Jeanne pp. 467–469
- Latin American Fashion pp. 469–472
- Lauren, Ralph pp. 472–474
- Laver, James pp. 474–476
- Lesage, François pp. 476–478
- Levi Strauss & Co. pp. 478–479
- Liberty & Co. pp. 479–481
- Lingerie pp. 481–482
- Little Black Dress pp. 482–484
- Logos pp. 484–485
- London Fashion* pp. 485–487
- Lucile pp. 487–488
M
- Macaroni Dress pp. 489–491
- Mainbocher pp. 491–493
- Makeup Artists pp. 493–494
- Mannequins pp. 494–496
- Mantua pp. 496–497
- Mao Suit pp. 497–498
- Margiela, Martin* pp. 498–500
- Masquerade and Masked Balls pp. 500–501
- Maternity Dress pp. 501–503
- McCardell, Claire pp. 503–505
- McQueen, Alexander pp. 505–507
- Military Style pp. 507–508
- Milliners pp. 508–512
- Miniskirt pp. 512–513
- Miyake, Issey pp. 513–516
- Modern Primitives pp. 516–517
- Moore, Doris Langley pp. 517–518
- Mourning Dress pp. 518–520
- Muffs pp. 520–521
- Muir, Jean pp. 521–522
- Music and Fashion pp. 522–527
N
- Nail Art pp. 528–530
- Nautical Style pp. 530–531
- Neckties and Neckwear pp. 531–534
- Nehru Jacket pp. 534–536
- New Look pp. 536–538
- Newton, Helmut pp. 538–539
- Nudism pp. 540–542
- Nudity pp. 542–543
O
- Occult Dress pp. 544–546
- Orientalism pp. 546–549
P
- Paper Dresses pp. 550–551
- Paquin, Jeanne pp. 551–552
- Patou, Jean pp. 553–555
- Patterns and Pattern Making pp. 556–559
- Penis Sheath pp. 559–561
- Penn, Irving pp. 561–563
- Perfume pp. 563–566
- Petticoat pp. 566–567
- Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery pp. 567–568
- Poiret, Paul pp. 569–573
- Politics and Fashion pp. 573–577
- Prada pp. 577–578
- Psychedelic Fashion pp. 578–579
- Pucci, Emilio pp. 579–581
- Punk pp. 582–585
Q
- Quant, Mary pp. 586–588
R
- Rabanne, Paco pp. 589–591
- Ready-to-Wear pp. 591–596
- Retailing pp. 596–599
- Retro Styles pp. 599–600
- Roma and Gypsy pp. 600–602
- Royal and Aristocratic Dress pp. 602–606
S
- Saint Laurent, Yves pp. 607–611
- Sapeurs pp. 611–612
- Sari pp. 613–616
- Sarong pp. 616–617
- Savile Row pp. 617–618
- Schiaparelli, Elsa pp. 618–621
- Seamstresses pp. 621–623
- Seventh Avenue pp. 623–625
- Shoemaking pp. 625–629
- Shoes pp. 629–630
- Shoes, Men’s pp. 630–632
- Shoes, Women’s pp. 632–637
- Simmel, Georg pp. 637–639
- Smith, Paul pp. 639–640
- Sneakers pp. 640–644
- Social Class and Clothing pp. 645–647
- Space Age Styles pp. 647–648
- Sportswear pp. 648–652
- Street Style pp. 652–655
- Striptease pp. 655–657
- Subcultures pp. 657–661
- Sumptuary Laws pp. 661–663
- Supermodels pp. 663–665
- Sweatshops pp. 665–668
- Swimwear pp. 668–673
T
- Tailoring pp. 674–677
- Tattoos pp. 677–679
- Tea Gown pp. 679–681
- Theatrical Costume pp. 681–684
- Theatrical Makeup pp. 684–685
- Tight-Lacing pp. 685–686
- Toga pp. 686–688
- Toledo, Isabel and Ruben* pp. 688–689
- Trendsetters p. 689
- Trickle-Down pp. 689–690
- T-Shirt pp. 690–692
- Turban pp. 692–695
- Tuxedo pp. 695–696
- Twiggy pp. 696–697
U
- Umbrellas and Parasols pp. 698–701
V
- Valentina* pp. 702–703
- Valentino* pp. 704–705
- Veblen, Thorstein pp. 705–707
- Versace, Gianni and Donatella* pp. 707–709
- Viktor & Rolf* pp. 709–710
- Vionnet, Madeleine* pp. 710–714
- Vogue pp. 714–715
- Vreeland, Diana pp. 715–717
- Vuitton, Louis* pp. 717–718
W
- Waistcoat pp. 719–720
- Wedding Costume pp. 720–722
- Westwood, Vivienne* pp. 722–725
- Wigs pp. 725–727
- Wilde, Oscar pp. 727–729
- Windsor, Duke and Duchess of pp. 729–732
- Women’s Wear Daily pp. 732–734
- Working-Class Dress pp. 734–737
- Worth, Charles Frederick pp. 737–740
X
- Xuly Bët pp. 741–742
Y
- Yamamoto, Yohji* pp. 743–746
- Youthquake Fashions pp. 746–749
Z
- Zipper pp. 750–751
- Zoot Suit pp. 751–753

The Berg Companion to Fashion

Abstract

Table of contents