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Lauren Bowes

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Ann Demeulemeester, Spring/Summer 1992

Elisa De Wyngaert

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive


The spring/summer collection of 1992 was Ann Demeulemeester’s first fashion show in Paris. She presented her looks alongside other young avant-garde Belgian designers, including Martin Margiela. The silhouettes of the collection featured some elements which would later become known as Demeulemeester’s signatures: feathers, a strong cut, and a kind of androgyny blended with poetic femininity. Yet these silhouettes also deviated from the monochromatic feel of her later work. Furthermore, Patti Smit


Kimberly A. Irwin

Source: Surface Design for Fabric, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Early needles and threads were used to sew together animal hides to make simple clothing and shelter, but eventually sewing evolved into a decorative craft. Embroidery developed throughout Siberia and the Middle East as early as the Bronze Age (4500–100 BC) and in China during the Zhou Dynasty (1100–256 BC).ClarkeSimon. Textile Design. London: Laurence King Publishing, 2011. It spread into Europe by the 12th century where it was found on religious banners and streamers bearing coats of arms. Embr

Martin Margiela

Casey Mackenzie Johnson

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Global Influences: Challenging Western Traditions

Bonnie English

Source: Japanese Fashion Designers. The Work and Influence of Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, 2011, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The Maison Margiela teamThe designers that we most admire are ‘those with an authentic approach to their work.’


Karlijn Bronselaer

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Belgium played a vital role in the industrialization of the European textile industry. Belgian society changed very quickly due to industrialization during the first half of the nineteenth century. From about the 1820s on the fashionable silhouette in West Europe was the hourglass. Although the average Belgian had neither time nor money for fashion, improved production methods and sewing machines made corsets more affordable. Later, the Art Nouveau or Jugendstil movement (ca. 1890–1920), with its

Margiela, Martin*

Kaat Debo and Linda Loppa

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The Golden Dustman: A Critical Evaluation of the Work of Martin Margiela and a Review of Martin Margiela: Exhibition (9/4/1615)

Caroline Evans

Source: Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion, 2nd Edition, 2009, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Margiela's eighteen earlier collections have featured a distinctive use of materials, deconstructions and reproductions. His predilection is for the abject – as epitomized by the second-hand or recycled – the cut-up and the one-off. Two forties dresses are cut up and spliced together to form one asymmetrical dress. A 1950s ball gown is cut down the front and worn open as a long waistcoat. The lining of a 1950s cocktail dress is exactly reproduced as a contemporary dress; the original lining of th

When Is Creativity?

Ingrid Loschek

Source: When Clothes Become Fashion. Design and Innovation Systems, 2009, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In the mid 1990s, the psychologist Hans Jürgen Eysenck conjectured that creative achievements might be connected to particularly weak filtering of stimuli in the brain. This filter function in the brain helps a person to select the most relevant from a wealth of impressions, to distinguish between the unimportant and the important. If the filter is especially permeable, it may present a prerequisite to unusual associations—which Eysenck regards as a typical characteristic of creativity. On the ot

Helmut Lang: Fabric, Skin, Figure

Barbara Vinken

Translated by Mark Hewson

Source: Fashion Zeitgeist. Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System, 2005, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

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