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Betsey Johnson, Spring/Summer 1986

Veronica Maldonado

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Presented at the Palladium nightclub in New York City, Betsey Johnson’s spring/summer 1986 collection depended on many of her signature tropes—her usual use of romantic stylings such as petticoats, crinolines, bustiers, and lace combine with kitschy accessories like kitchen utensils, baggie boxes as hats, baby bottle earrings, and feather dusters, creating a look that teases ideas of the feminine—the romantic femininity of the materials and silhouettes mixes with the traditionally female role of

The Crinoline Period 1850–1870

Phyllis G. Tortora and Sara B. Marcketti

Source: Survey of Historic Costume, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The increasing width of women’s skirts had been leading to the use of multiple layers of stiffened petticoats. In September 1856 the editor of Peterson’s Magazine hailed the revival of the 18th-century hoopskirts as a means of holding out these voluminous skirts:

The Crinoline Period, 1850–1869

Phyllis G. Tortora and Sara B. Marcketti

Source: Survey of Historic Costume. Student Study Guide, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

After studying this chapter, you will be able to:

Underwear

Grace Evans

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The fashionable silhouette has gone through bewildering changes during the last two hundred years, and these would not have been possible without the shapes created beneath. Underwear and outerwear progressed in tandem. Underwear designers responded to prevailing styles of fashionable dress, and fashion designers built and relied upon the capabilities of structural underpinnings as they developed. These changes were, in turn, influenced by key social, economic, and technological developments, whi

Russia: Urban Dress up to the End of the Nineteenth Century

Raisa Marduhovna Kirsanova

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

During the eighteenth century, Catherine the Great, and her father, Paul I, had firmly suppressed the fashion trends arriving from France into Russia. All European monarchies saw their power threatened by the revolutionary events in France. New fashion that rejected all previous symbols of social hierarchy was perceived as external evidence of revolutionary ideology. Catherine the Great was caught between two fires. As a foreigner on the Russian throne, she tried to infuse her rule with the natio

Victorian Fashion

Rebecca N. Mitchell

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

This article offers a review of the major sartorial trends that occurred in Britain during the reign of Queen Victoria (1837–1901), to suggest that evolving women’s and men’s fashions in the period reflect the social, political, and economic developments of the day. In addition to discussing the evolution of Victorian style, the article treats industrial and retail innovations (including the rise of mass-produced garments and the department store), progressive movements (including the Rational Dr

Slovakia: Urban Dress

Magdaléna M. Zubercová

Translated by Jana Levická

František Pál

George Hirner

L’ubica Chorváthová

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The Slovak Republic was created in 1993 after the former Czechoslovakia split into two independent states. The largest ethnic minorities are Hungarians and Roma people. Portraits show that during the Napoleonic wars, the women of Hungarian society in Slovak lands started to wear light, fine dresses with low-cut bodices and bare shoulders. In the Empire period, cultivated and elegant “Viennese fashion” became desirable. In the nineteenth century, Budapest tailors ambitiously devoted themselves to

Hips and Bottom

Susan J. Vincent

Source: The Anatomy of Fashion. Dressing the Body from the Renaissance to Today, 2009, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

‘Does my bum look big in this?’ For most of the time from the start of the sixteenth century to the opening years of the twentieth, the answer would have been a glorious, resounding and opulent yes.

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