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Fashion and Feminism

Henriette Dahan-Kalev and Shoshana-Rose Marzel

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

civil rightsgenderDuring the French Revolution, dress became an important issue: one of the ways in which revolutionaries’ values were to be obtained and symbolized was through the adoption of class-less styles of clothing, which expressed the ideals of Fraternity, Liberty, and Equality.

The Theater of Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Nous savons donc beaucoup de gré à mademoiselle Nathalie des sacrifices qu’elle fait pour ses costumes; de beaux habits sur de jolies femmes, rien n’est plus charmant.

The Crinoline Period 1850–1870

Phyllis G. Tortora and Sara B. Marcketti

Source: Survey of Historic Costume, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The increasing width of women’s skirts had been leading to the use of multiple layers of stiffened petticoats. In September 1856 the editor of Peterson’s Magazine hailed the revival of the 18th-century hoopskirts as a means of holding out these voluminous skirts:

Bloomer Costume

Colleen R. Callahan

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Our skirts have been robbed of about a foot of their former length, and a pair of loose trousers of the same material as the dress, substituted. These latter extend from the waist to the ankle, and may be gathered into a band & We make our dress the same as usual, except that we wear no bodice, or a very slight one, the waist is loose and easy, and without whalebones & Our skirt is full, and falls a little below the knee.

Pants, Trousers

Joseph H. Hancock and Edward Augustyn

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Pants, sometimes referred to as trousers, knickers, khakis, slacks, and various other names, have been worn by many and have influenced almost everyone’s lives. Few studies actually recognize both the historical and cultural significance of pants. Some of the most recent works include such books as Richard Martin’s (1999) photographic essay Khaki, Cut from the Original Cloth and Laurence Benaïm’s Pants: A History Afoot, which traces the history of pants from 550 b.c.e. to the early twenty-first c

Sports and Dress

Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Translated by Stig Erik Sørheim

Kjetil Enstad

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

In Europe, interest in sports and outdoor life emerged in the nineteenth century. The bourgeoisie went to the countryside to experience nature. Time spent in contact with nature was viewed as a source of inner peace and spiritual development, while awareness of the importance of physical activity for beauty and health grew. With the introduction of regulated working hours and official holidays at the beginning of the twentieth century, the working classes began to have vacation and spare time, to

Dress Reform

Kristina Stankovski

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

During the years following the English Civil War of 1642, various influential clothing-reform movements flourished. One of the nonconformist groups that emerged during this time was the Religious Society of Friends, commonly known as Quakers. The group’s founder, George Fox, established a set of social practices that were based on Christian ideologies and utopianism. The main thesis proposed by Fox was simplicity of appearance and lifestyle. His favor of spirituality over what he considered to be

Genitals and Legs

Susan J. Vincent

Source: The Anatomy of Fashion. Dressing the Body from the Renaissance to Today, 2009, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

What is the one thing that frogs and properly built men alone have in common? The answer, according to John Doran’s nineteenth-century study of costume history, is calves.JohnDoran, Habits and Men (London: Richard Bentley, 1855), p. 197. For until modernity reinscribed their attractions as female, the desirability of good calves, thighs and legs has been positioned securely within the realm of the masculine. Hidden beneath their enveloping dresses, until the twentieth century women’s legs were al

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