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Tweed, Femininity, and Fashion, 1851–1918

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Prior to the early 1850s, Scottish woolen manufacturers predominantly catered to the ladies’ trade through the weaving of shawls and fine, merino dress fabrics that were known as ““cloakings”cloakings,” as noted in Chapter 3. In 1863, Locke, JamesJames Locke described recent changes in the Scottish woolen industryScottish woolen industry, by stating: The Scotch tweed trade then may be divided into three distinct sections- viz. tweeds, shawlsshawls, and cloakings. The last of these came to their c

Angel in the Market Place: The African-Jamaican Higgler 1880–1907

Carol Tulloch

Source: The Birth of Cool. Style Narratives of the African Diaspora, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

higgler (market trader): “A Jamaican Lady” postcardcritical draw ofLike many other African-Jamaicans featured on postcards during the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, this woman’s personal details are lost to us. There is no way of knowing her age. She could be anywhere between forty and sixty. What is suggested that if she was closer to sixty, she was an ex-slave, and if nearer to forty, then her parents were enslaved. Either way, this woman had a direct link to the pre-emancipation

Military Dress as an Ideological Marker in Roman Palestine

Guy D. Stiebel

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Only a few instances from the Roman Empire actually provide scholars with near-complete assemblages of panoplies, and most rare of all are the remains that derived directly from conflict lands. In addition to the celebrated navy soldier from ce79 Herculaneum,R. Gore, “2000 Years of Silence: The Dead Do Tell Tales at Vesuvius,” National Geographic, 165 (1984), pp. 557–613; S. Ortisi “Pompeji und Herculaneum—Soldaten in den Vesuvsdäten,” Archäologie der Schlachtfelder—Militaria aus Zerstörungshoriz

‘To The Ends of The Earth’: Fashion and Ethnicity in The Vogue Fashion Shoot

Sarah Cheang

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present, 2013, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The August 2007 issue of British Vogue contains a twenty-page fashion story with the heroic, romantic and evocative title ‘To the Ends of the Earth’. Photographed by Tim Walker in Papua New Guinea, a set of sixteen entrancing and startling pictures dramatize fashion through portraits of the model in physical and editorial juxtaposition with landscapes, forests and local tribesmen. These arresting images are deliberately set in place. They are given an explicit and expanded sense of location by wr

Colonialism to Independence

Heather Marie Akou

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Africa, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

A colony, also referred to as an overseas possession (a term used by imperial powers in the nineteenth century) or non-self-governing territory (a term used by the United Nations), is essentially a region governed by an external authority. From 1874 to 1957, for example, the present-day nation of Ghana was known as the Gold Coast, a colony ruled by the British Empire. On the African continent, colonies were established through settlement, commercial enterprises, treaties, or sometimes invasion. T


Nigel Arch

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

A uniform may be defined as a prescribed set of clothing peculiar to a distinct group of individuals within a society. It is distinguished by displays of hierarchy evident on parts of the dress and will usually also display emblems that act as signals only readily interpreted by other members of the group. Hierarchy is expressed in terms of rank, and badges of rank have appeared on such elements of uniform dress as the shoulder strap and cuffs of the upper body garment. Other symbols act as remin

Colonialism and Imperialism

Karen Tranberg Hansen

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The cultural norms that guided the West’s colonial encounters were shaped importantly by Christian notions of morality and translated into action across the colonial world by missionary societies from numerous denominations. The colonial conquest by Spain and Portugal of today’s Latin America developed caste-like socioeconomic and political systems in which indigenous people and African slaves were forced to convert to Christianity and to wear Western styles of dress. Yet the rich weaving traditi

Senegal and Gambia

Hudita Nura Mustafa

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Africa, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The location of Senegambia between the Sahara Desert, Atlantic Ocean, and West African savannas makes it a prime spot for cross-cultural exchange. The region consists of two nation-states—Senegal (a French colony 1890 to 1960) and Gambia (a British colony 1888 to 1965)—marked by millennia of shared history, culture, and geography. The area is in turn part of the larger subregion of the Sahel, formed from medieval African empires and formerly (mostly) French, Portuguese, and British colonial state

Regional Dress of Latin America in a European Context

Patricia Rieff Anawalt

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Latin America and the Caribbean, 2005, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

A collision of cultures occurred at the time of Spain’s sixteenth-century conquest of the two great empires of the Americas, the Mesoamerican Aztecs of central Mexico and the Andean Inka of today’s Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia. Latin America’s present-day traditional dress—the distinctive, non-Western-style clothing still worn by many Central American and Andean Indians—is an amalgam of New World indigenous apparel and Spanish Colonial–period peasant attire: Two contrasting concepts of clothing con

Rising Sun,Setting Trends: Exporting British Fashion

L. Alison Goodrum

Source: The National Fabric. Fashion, Britishness, Globalization, 2005, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Just ‘when does the “age of empire” begin and end?’ asks Driver (1993: 615), for ‘in what we might perhaps describe as the discourse of imperial campDriver offers us a further note of explanation on his use of the term ‘imperial camp’. ‘In Britain, at least,’ he writes, ‘fantasies about the exploits of imperial heroes continue, despite everything, to exert a powerful influence over the public sphere’ (Driver 1993: 615). Imperial camp, then, refers to the exaggerated – literally ‘the camping up’ o

Scouts, Guides, and the Fashioning of Empire, 1919–39

Tammy M. Proctor

Source: Fashioning the Body Politic. Dress, Gender, Citizenship, 2002, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

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