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A Soul in Control: The Art of the Automaton

Adam Geczy

Source: The Artificial Body in Fashion and Art. Marionettes, Models, and Mannequins, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

automaton, automataMy friend, there are three models, Diderot, DenisThe Paradox of the Actorthe man of nature, the man of poetry and the man of acting. The one of nature is not as great as the poet who is in turn not as great as the great actor, the most exaggerated of all. The latter climbs onto the shoulders of the poet, a large wicker mannequin that houses its soul, shaking this figure fearfully, even to the extent that the poet no longer recognizes himself.

Paris, Capital of Fashion?

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Fluctuat nec mergitur

Lolita Lempicka

Morna Laing

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

A Soundtrack for Consumerism: Music, Image and Myth

Paul Jobling

Source: Advertising Menswear. Masculinity and Fashion in the British Media since 1945, 2014, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Hair

Geraldine Biddle-Perry and Sarah Cheang

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Across cultures, the symbolic and material management of hair on bodies, faces and heads is intrinsic to human adornment and hygiene, ritualized belief, and commercial enterprise. Fashions in hair can display an enormous and shifting range of aesthetic and social conventions. A wide variety of primary and secondary sources provides an overview of key debates and theories that describe, inform, and develop our understanding of the styling and management of human hair as a powerful vehicle for soci

Popular (DC and Marvel) Superhero Comic-Book Costumes

Jonathan S. Marion and James Scanlan

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The late 1930s saw the birth of the unique genre of American superhero comic books, drawn from: (1) preceding genres including sci-fi pulp, Victorian adventure, and hard-boiled detective stories; and (2) the visual narrative and magical realism of early motion pictures. In developing their new aesthetic, writers and artists drew from contemporary sartorial advances such as everyday sports and leisurewear, established military uniforms and theatrical costumes, and the invention of semisynthetic fa

Dress and Cultural Memory among the Miao

Phila McDaniel

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Asia, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The Miao national minority uses textile patterns and symbols as mnemonic devices. Without a written language, Miao women employ embroidery and resist-dyeing pattern techniques to keep memories alive by recording myths, legends, and even the milestones of the Miao migrations.

Ethnic Dress and Adornment of the Dayaks of Sabah, Sarawak, and Kalimantan

Edric Ong

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. South Asia and Southeast Asia, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Colonizers used the term Dayak for non-Islamic indigenous peoples of Borneo, divided into Sarawak and Sabah, the two East Malaysian states, and Kalimantan in Indonesia and Brunei. It is less used now, as ethnic groups wish to be identified by their own names. The oral history of the indigenous peoples of Sarawak, Sabah, and Kalimantan is rich in myths closely related to textiles, dress, and ornaments. The Iban, comprising 30 percent of the state’s population, have one of the richest textile tradi

Asmat Dress

Pauline van der Zee

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The Asmat people live along the southwest coast of New Guinea. In this extremely damp, swampy climate, being unclothed is more practical than wearing garments. Besides, in a society where experiencing danger is common, clothes can be troublesome because they may easily catch on rough undergrowth and thorny plants. Until the 1960s Asmat men left their genitals uncovered and children and women went partly naked. Westerners thus reported that they wore nothing, but the Asmat themselves believed thei

Hair, Devotion and Trade in India

Eiluned Edwards

Source: Hair. Styling, Culture and Fashion, 2008, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Purity and pollution are key concepts in the orthodox Hindu schema, and also in the history, myths, folklore and devotional practice that surround hair in India. These concepts are manifested at a symbolic level through stories and worship, and at the level of lived daily experience through popular customs and vernacular medicine. Notions of ritual purity and pollution are also exemplified in the social and religious hierarchy of caste which offers a unique insight into the function of barbers, m

Intertextual Strategies and Contemporary Mythology

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body, 2004, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Greek Beads of the Mycenaean Period (ca.1650–1100 bc): The Age of the Heroines of Greek Tradition and Mythology

Helen Hughes-Brock

Source: Beads and Bead Makers. Gender, Material Culture and Meaning, 1998, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

As an archaeologist contributing to a largely anthropological volume, I must point out certain problems specific to archaeology in general in the study of beads, but like my fellow contributors I focus upon a particular time and place. I have chosen a society whose beads are an exceptionally rich source of information about some aspects, but rather disappointing with regard to information on the relation of beads to gender.

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