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Jacket Silhouettes and Collar/Lapel Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Lapel designs, jacketsCollar and neckline designsThe jacket is an item of clothing that is worn over other clothing. The focus for jackets is on alternating lengths and volumes, combining with comfortable lines and collars. Some are made in double-breasted or single-breasted manner, while others have no closing and some are closed with a zipper or buttons.

Collars

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Any collar can be cut on the straight, cross, or bias grain or can be mitered on the bias at the center back. However, these different grain lines are most evident on striped collars. The bias-cut collar has the most stretch to it and is often chosen by designers because of its beautiful roll line.

Grading with multiple x,y Axes

Kathy K. Mullet

Source: Concepts of Pattern Grading. Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading, 3rd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Grading manually or by computer requires the movement of cardinal points in x and y directions on a Cartesian graph. The Cartesian graph was introduced in Chapter 3, where a single set of x,y axes was discussed. The procedure for moving the pattern along the axes is illustrated in Chapter 3, and grading examples of the basic blocks and other basic styles are given in Chapters 5, 6, and 7.

Design Details

Milva Fiorella Di Lorenzo

Source: Tailoring Techniques for Fashion, 2010, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

After you have read this chapter, you should be able to discuss:

Collars

Nora M. MacDonald

Source: Principles of Flat-Pattern Design, 4th Edition, 2010, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Aflat collarlies against the body and has no stand; however, a slight roll is produced so that the collar covers the neck seamline. The neckline curve of the flat collar duplicates the neckline curves of the bodice front and bodice back basic slopers. When reproducing the sloper neckline curve, an adjustment is made in placing the bodice front and bodice back slopers in relation to each other. This adjustment shortens the collar style line to produce a slight roll at the neckline in order to cove

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