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Creative Design and the Development Package

Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza and Marilyn Hefferen

Source: Designing a Knitwear Collection. From Inspiration to Finished Garments, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Inspiration for a seasonal knitwear collection comes from many sources—popular culture; the available yarns and equipment; and prevailing trends in silhouettes, stitches, patterns, and color palettes. Designers may travel to yarn and knit fairs to review the forecasted trends for seasonal yarns and stitch development and begin to purchase sample yarn for their next season. One of the largest knit fairs, Pitti Filati, takes place in Florence, Italy, twice yearly for about three days around the end

Trends in Fashion Buying

David Shaw and Dimitri Koumbis

Source: Fashion Buying. From Trend Forecasting to Shop Floor, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Buyers help to set up a number of promotional retail activities, with the aim of achieving a higher gross margin each season while moving units at a more rapid rate. Many of these promotions typically entail some level of discount pricing, but there are also other promotional activities that can help to drive sales without compromising the overall pricing strategy as set by the buying and merchandising teams.

Advertising and Public Relations: From Verbal to Viral

Jon Cope and Dennis Maloney

Source: Fashion Promotion in Practice, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

After explaining what advertising and public relations are, how they differ, and what they do, this chapter outlines how these deeply intersecting promotional disciplines combine in integrated campaigns to exploit the proliferation of digital channels that have transformed consumer communications during the Internet era. Q&As with practitioners offer insights into these vital segments of the industry in what some have called the “post-advertising era.”

The Fashion Magazine: From Print to Pixel

Jon Cope and Dennis Maloney

Source: Fashion Promotion in Practice, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

This chapter looks at the emergence fashion magazines, how they achieved their promotional power, and how they evolved into multiplatform entities. Defining the roles and processes of the magazine, it discusses whether printed matter is becoming obsolete, and outlines how contemporary promoters may exploit the opportunities for brands created by new magazine formats. It also delves into the challenges of new formats, and explores the future of fashion publishing.

Traditional Media

Kristen K. Swanson and Judith C. Everett

Source: Promotion In The Merchandising Environment, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

“Despite the juggernaut of broadcast journalism, new media, news apps and podcasts cropping left and right, over half of the world’s population turns to a newspaper for credible information, every day.”

Fashion Journalism and the Catwalk

Julie Bradford

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The second half of the twentieth century may go down as a golden age for the fashion press covering the collections. As ready-to-wear shows multiplied and fashion became part of popular culture—but before live-streaming and social media meant that everyone could see collections instantly—journalists were in a uniquely privileged position to convey news of this exciting new world to a burgeoning audience. This article will investigate how integral the press was to the development of fashion shows

Consuelo Castiglioni

Giulia Bussinello

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Moroccan Lifestyle Media

M. Angela Jansen

Source: Moroccan Fashion. Design, tradition and modernity, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

As was discussed in Chapter 2, the Moroccan nationalist movementnationalist movement brought, among other things, tremendous changes in the lives, consciousness and ambitionambitions of Moroccan women by the middle of the twentieth century. More women were enjoying an educationeducation and soon they discovered the impact the written word could have on their cause. Therefore a first generation of Moroccan women’s magazines introduced in the 1960s were all run by renowned feminists and had a stron

From Kays of Worcester to Vogue, Paris: The Women’s Institute Magazine, Rural Life and Fashionable Dress in Post-War Britain

Rachel Ritchie

Source: Dress History. New Directions in Theory and Practice, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

It is widely acknowledged that fashion is modern. If one adopts David Frisby’s definition of modernité as ‘the more general experience of the aestheticization of everyday life, as exemplified in the transitory qualities of an urban culture shaped by the imperatives of fashion, consumerism, and constant innovation,’ fashion is proto-typically modern. (Stewart 2008: xii)

Bibliographic guide

Fashion weeks have become a global phenomenon during the twenty-first century, as hundreds of cities around the world organize events in the hope of attracting attention from clients, retailers, and the press. The established capitals of fashion—Paris, New York, London, and Milan—increasingly share the spotlight with Lagos, New Delhi, and São Paolo, among many other cities. Fashion weeks traditionally center on the live showings of designers’ new, seasonal collections. Whereas such shows were onc, Berg Fashion Library

Here Comes New Man—Again

Paul Jobling

Source: Advertising Menswear. Masculinity and Fashion in the British Media since 1945, 2014, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Coco Chanel and Socialist Fashion Magazines

Djurdja Bartlett

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present, 2013, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The encounter between Coco Chanel and the world’s first socialist country—the Bolshevik Russia—did not happen in the early 1920s when both Chanel and socialism were still modernist projects. Following the 1917 October revolution, the Bolsheviks embraced the speed of the new era, worshiped the machine and acknowledged a crisis in the representation of the female gender. Moreover, the main Bolshevik artistic supporters—the constructivists—chose geometric abstraction as their visual language. In tha

Digital Fashion

Gwyneth Moore

Source: Fashion Promotion. Building a Brand Through Marketing and Communication, 2012, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The digital fashion revolution is not just about fashion reporting or blogging. It has enabled new designers to create an online presence and increased exposure, giving increased visibility and new opportunities to engage with the customer. Armed with ideas, images, a well-developed brand and a well-designed and constructed collection, it is now possible to create an online presence and retail offering with relative ease.

Experiences Learned along the Way

Ira Neimark

Source: The Rise of Fashion and Lessons Learned at Bergdorf Goodman, 2011, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

My relationships with the fashion press began with a shocker. In 1970 James Brady, the former publisher of Woman’s Wear Daily, sent a reporter to interview Randy Stambaugh, the president of B. Altman & Co. He asked, “Now that Best & Company is closing, when will that happen to B. Altman?” Randy Stambaugh, handsome and always the perfect gentleman, reminded me of a character out of an F. Scott Fitzgerald novel. He may well have come close to losing his cool or temper but said nothing more than “Th

Croatia: Urban Dress, Twentieth to Twenty-First Centuries

Maja Arčabić

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Croatia entered the twentieth century split up into several territorial units within the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Dalmatia and Istria belonged to the Austrian part, while Civil Croatia and Slavonia, as well as the city of Rijeka, were under the control of Budapest. The continuity of Croatia as a political entity in its own right was maintained by the parliament, or Sabor, which convened in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia and Slavonia, but lacked any significant authority. The border between the tw

Fashion Journalism

Kate Nelson Best

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Fashion journalism embraces all kinds of media commentary, but primarily newspaper and magazine articles, about the fashion industry, those who populate the fashion world, and fashion itself. As such, it has commercial, ideological, and symbolic functions that have remained unchanged since the mid-1800s.

Visual Media and Dress

Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Gibson Church

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Visual media have played an enormous role in the development of fashion in West Europe. Fashion imagery emerged within print journalism, more specifically women’s magazines, in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The development of popular cinema in the first half of the twentieth century had a momentous impact on the global fashion industry, especially in the star system, the “tie-in,” and the involvement of both couturiers and ready-to-wear designers in film. From the radical changes of th

Writing about Fashions

Sandra Stansbery Buckland

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The twentieth century brought many innovations in the fashion world, and those innovations prompted many people to report on new fashions, to analyze them, and even to criticize them. Fashion was, and is, news. Fashion is both an artistic expression and a vital industry that makes significant contributions to a nation’s economy. And fashion is a sartorial mirror that reflects a culture’s values, beliefs, politics, and technologies. Fashion, then, can also be controversial. With so many facets to

France

Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The French Revolution abolished the rigid dress etiquette and bureaucracy of the ancien régime fashion industry. Napoleon’s campaigns inspired fashions with soldierly details and created a vogue for exotic accessories. His imperial court ensured the survival of French luxury goods industries, while promoting a more modern silhouette. Napoleon encouraged pre-Revolutionary tastes for classical Greek and Roman styles, to glorify his own reign. The restoration of the Bourbon monarchy and the Romantic

Fashion on Smartphones

Leopoldina Fortunati and Yao Nie

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

This article investigates fashion mobile applications that are mapped according to their features: content typology, number and average scores of ratings, as well as number of reviews posted by users and their content. Second, user behavior is compared between the United States and China, the two biggest smartphone markets in the world. Fashion mobile applications have an indirect relationship with the fashion system and millions of potential customers. In these applications, in fact, the relatio

Promotion and Publishing

Michele M. Granger

Source: The Fashion Intern, 2nd Edition, 2010, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Promotion refers to the activities used to communicate the product attributes to the target consumer through four major tools: (1) advertising, (2) sales promotion, (3) publicity, and (4) personal selling.

Fashion Journalism

Marylou Luther

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Romanian Urban Dress after 1900

Sanda Miller

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The role of fashion as a barometer of social progress was reflected in the speed with which Romanian society discarded the Ottoman dress they had worn for hundreds of years for West European attire at the beginning of the twentieth century. The extent of the cultural influence France exerted over Romania from the early 1900s until World War II—when Romania became one of the satellite countries of the Soviet Union—can be measured by the monumental exhibition entitled Expozitiunea generala romana t

Fashion Magazines

Brian Moeran

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Fashion magazines are both cultural products and commodities. As cultural products, they circulate in a cultural economy of collective meanings. They provide how-to recipes, illustrated stories, narratives, and experiential and behavioral models—particularly in the realms of fashion and beauty—in which the reader’s ideal self is reflected and on which she can herself reflect and act. As commodities, fashion magazines are products of the publishing and print industries and important sites for the

Japanese Men’s Fashion Magazines

Masafumi Monden

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Asia, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The Japanese market for men’s fashion magazines has been flourishing. Japanese men’s fashion magazines are not only numerous but also diverse, with stylistic categories that closely correspond with specific reader demographics. The significance of these Japanese men’s fashion periodicals is highlighted by the domination of fashion over lifestyle content. Another notable characteristic is the unique utilization of dokusha models (amateur models; a literal translation would be “reader models”), who

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