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Vivienne Westwood’s Elevated Ghillie Shoes from 1993

Hayley-Jane Edwards-Dujardin

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

For her fall/winter 1993–1994 “Anglomania” collection, Vivienne Westwood perched her models on extremely elevated platform shoes. Inspired, as most of her collection, by Scottish traditional garments, the platform shoes reinterpreted ancestral ghillies worn for folkloric dances. However, apart from the lacing structure, the shoes were more reminiscent of fetish footwear—an aesthetic typical of Vivienne Westwood’s taste for combining conservatism with subversiveness. When the British designer rein

Bill Blass, Fall/Winter 1997

Michelle Honig

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Shown in the tents at Bryant Park, New York, Bill Blass’s fall/winter 1997 collection did not have any one particular theme. Instead, he designed simple, classic clothes encompassing a range of styles and looks. There were hints of the 1980s, a decade that other designers—such as Oscar de la Renta—looked to for inspiration for their own fall collections. There were animal prints—ranging from giraffe to python—that glorified the animal kingdom, cubist-patterned velvet jackets over wool pants, and

Valentino, Fall/Winter 1992

Rosily Roberts

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Valentino’s fall/winter 1992 collection, designed shortly after his thirtieth anniversary in the fashion industry, draws on both the history of Western dress and clothing from China and Japan for inspiration. The dramatic silhouette of his 1980s lines has disappeared, and he is allowing for a greater exposure of the model’s body as he creates a collection out of luxurious materials that is rich with detailing. The timeless elegance that he was so well known for by the 1990s continues to appear in

Valentino Couture, Fall/Winter 2000

Rosily Roberts

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

In 2000, Valentino celebrated forty years in the fashion industry with a series of events and a special display of his previous designs. This collection, created in the midst of this period of self-reflection and celebration, is a witness to that. There are clear references among the garments to previous designs and the fashions of the previous century, which Valentino looks to for inspiration. His fall/winter 2000 designs are slimmer and more revealing than those of the 1980s, displaying more of

Givenchy Couture, Fall/Winter 1990

Aimee Williams

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Two years after the acquisition of Givenchy by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessey (LVMH), Givenchy’s fall/winter 1990 collection struggled to negotiate its legacy as a couture line and produce designs to appeal to a contemporary clientele. Elements that had worked in favor of the house in the 1980s drew criticism. While other designers unstructured their silhouettes, Givenchy presented square shoulders on wool suits and evening wear alike. Gold lamé and organza dresses with short, dipping hemlines were

Givenchy Couture, Fall/Winter 1983

Aimee Williams

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Givenchy’s well-received fall/winter 1983 couture collection augured the opulence of the decade. Lavish surfeit came in many options for patrons, from jewel-encrusted leather boleros and skirt suits trimmed with mink and fox fur for day, to sequined metallic gowns for evening. Suede and leather gloves and hats and oversized jewels accessorized hand-painted silk skirts and dresses. The chemise and the hourglass shape prevailed. The former figure came in a range of sumptuous textiles, corresponding

Paris as a Fashion City

Martine Elzingre

Translated by Pierre Hodgson

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Paris fashions—clothes, lingerie, accessories, and jewelry, together with other beauty products such as hairstyles, fragrances, and cosmetics—have come to dominate the world beyond the borders of France, as well as beyond Europe and indeed outside the West. In Paris itself, the two arts of dressing and seduction have thrived because innumerable ideas and techniques for applying those ideas have constantly been discovered—a continual process of experimentation.

Fashion Week

Lise Skov

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

In the late twentieth century, fashion week became the standard name for biannual or annual trade fairs and fashion shows. For high-end designers’ biannual presentations, the term collections has been widely used; for example, the Paris Collections or the Tokyo Collections, and the Moscow fairs that started in 2002 are identified by the abbreviation CPM (Collection Première Moscow, organized by Igedo). Trade fairs have been known by a number of different names; in the 1970s, Hong Kong Fashion Wee

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