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Tallinn House of Fashion under Socialism

Anu Ojavee

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Professional fashion design in Estonia started in the decades preceding World War II. Fashion study at the State Applied Art School (now the Estonian Academy of Arts) started in 1940 under Natalie Mei. Under Soviet rule Estonia’s economy and culture were thoroughly reshaped. From 1957 until the end of the Soviet Union in 1991, garment design was concentrated in Tallinna Moemaja (Tallinn House of Fashion), where top Estonian designers and tailors created samples for the garment industry. Even duri

Estonia: Urban Dress

Reet Piiri

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus 2010

Encyclopedia entry

In the thirteenth century, Estonia was divided among German nobility, but no German peasants moved there, so a clear ethnic divide developed along class lines. Clothing was produced in guilds, and also at home, especially (but not only) in poorer households. The fifteenth century marked the advent of the décolleté, hoop skirt, flared sleeves, and gold and silver embroidery. Although the Reformation reached Estonia in 1523, the courtly clothing fashions of Catholic Spain exerted an influence. The

Estonia: Ethnic Dress

Ellen Värv

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Estonia’s position, between east and west, has influenced the evolution of traditional dress. In the thirteenth century Estonia became a German province, with sharp national and class distinctions, ethnic dress denoting low status and national identity, while the few Estonians achieving higher status became Germanized. For centuries the main raw materials for clothes in Estonia were flax and wool; finer linen was for festive clothing. Clothes were decorated mainly by peasant women, complicated de

Estonia, Subcultural Dress

Ellen Värv

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus 2010

Encyclopedia entry

In Soviet Estonia, the activity of young people was subject to the control of the ruling ideology, but information about the activities of young people abroad nonetheless reached their Estonian counterparts. This led to the imitation of Western youth culture and the formation of subcultural dress practices by Estonian youth.

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