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Knit Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesKnit designsThere is a free-spirit attitude in knitwear, which exhibits an effortless fusion of relaxed casual sportswear with modern sophistication. Fashioning knits allows the designer to create looks that offer super-feminine, whimsical design, an element of nostalgia, or a buoyant sporty look.

Knit Fabrics

Deborah E. Young

Source: Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Knitting is the second major method of constructing a textile. Weaving was invented thousands of years before knitting; knits are relative newcomers. As such, knitting structures borrow a lot of their terms and surfaces from woven fabrics. Notice that some knit fabrics even share the same or similar names as woven fabrics, such as piqués, ribs, and jacquards. It can be quite confusing. In the past decade, the knit market has grown exponentially, taking on a much larger share of the textile market

Specialty Weft Knits

Deborah E. Young

Source: Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Interlock (Figure 13.1) is both the simplest of the double knits (made on a double needle bed) and is also a variation of a 1×1 rib knit. Interlock is so closely related to the rib knit that it is often difficult to identify the difference between the two. Effectively, interlock is two jerseys made back-to-back, with wales on both the face and back. For this reason, it is sometimes called a double jersey. This term is somewhat problematic because it does not look like or perform like a jersey. Es

Warp Knits

Deborah E. Young

Source: Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Tricot is the simplest of the warp knits. Notice that Swatch 144 has a different face and back, like jersey. In fact, tricot and jersey are made quite similarly. Each is made entirely of knit stitches, with a face of wales and a back of courses. But jersey and tricot are made on different machines and, therefore, do not look or perform the same. Generally, tricot is lighter weight and smoother than jersey because the stitches are smaller, and tricot is usually made of filament yarns. Unlike jerse

Quick Reference Guide Tables

Deborah E. Young

Source: Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Swatch Boards

Deborah E. Young

Source: Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The History of Knitwear

Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza and Marilyn Hefferen

Source: Designing a Knitwear Collection. From Inspiration to Finished Garments, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Knitting is defined as “the art of interlacing a single thread, in a series of connected loops, by the use of needles to make fabric.”Milton Grass, History of Hosiery (New York: Fairchild, 1955), 104. It's hard to believe that in the third century, hand knitters exclusively used four to five needles rather than the two-needle method, as we know knitting to be. Modern technology uses as many as one thousand computer-controlled needles in one knitting bed alone, sometimes with more than four beds s

Stitch Fundamentals

Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza and Marilyn Hefferen

Source: Designing a Knitwear Collection. From Inspiration to Finished Garments, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The loop is the basic structure of knitting. When a loop is formed and used in a sequence, a knit fabric is created. When a yarn is carried horizontally to create a series of loops, the method of knitting is known as weft knitting (see Chapter 1). Weft structures may be made by hand or by machine. This is the most common method of knitting used for fabric and clothing (Figure 3.1, left). Warp knitting is the method of carrying a yarn in a sequence that requires a vertical movement (Figure 3.1, ri

Knitting Methods

Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza and Marilyn Hefferen

Source: Designing a Knitwear Collection. From Inspiration to Finished Garments, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The variety of knitting methods and machines available today is plentiful. The newest technologies and machines are capable of producing complex pattern designs and silhouettes through their ability to increase, decrease, and transfer stitches seamlessly. All weft-knitting machines, whether single-bed, double-bed, or the newer electronic systems with slide beds, have the capacity to knit, tuck, and miss stitches. All of these methods are the techniques used to manipulate loops and stitches in ord

Creative Design and the Development Package

Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza and Marilyn Hefferen

Source: Designing a Knitwear Collection. From Inspiration to Finished Garments, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Inspiration for a seasonal knitwear collection comes from many sources—popular culture; the available yarns and equipment; and prevailing trends in silhouettes, stitches, patterns, and color palettes. Designers may travel to yarn and knit fairs to review the forecasted trends for seasonal yarns and stitch development and begin to purchase sample yarn for their next season. One of the largest knit fairs, Pitti Filati, takes place in Florence, Italy, twice yearly for about three days around the end

Sample Development

Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza and Marilyn Hefferen

Source: Designing a Knitwear Collection. From Inspiration to Finished Garments, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The experience of knitting a sample on a hand-flat knitting machine is an invaluable process for designers to come to understand the principles of sweater construction. The method of hand-knitting on a machine includes increasing and decreasing to shape a garment and partial knitting to shape the shoulder and neckline. Through this experience, designers gain insight and an understanding of how a sweater's structure, styling, and finishing can affect the design. After knitting and constructing a b

Computer-Aided Design for Knitwear

Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza and Marilyn Hefferen

Source: Designing a Knitwear Collection. From Inspiration to Finished Garments, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Doug Ross at MIT coined the phrase “computer-aided design” in 1959.Douglas T. Ross, http://groups.csail.mit.edu/mac/projects/studentaut/ncworld/NCWorld_DR_photo.htm.CAD, by definition, is the use of computer technology as a tool to design products. The products that the programs design and create depend on the user. Specialized CAD programs are used by fashion designers, textile designers, industrial designers, architects, graphic designers, engineers, and a host of others. The list of creative u

Surface-Specific Techniques

Anette Fischer and Kiran Gobin

Source: Construction for Fashion Design, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Felted woven fabrics are shrunk and compressed with heat, moisture and friction to produce a dense appearance. Some of the better-known felted fabrics are loden, melton or fleece. The edges of a felted fabric do not fray, so seams can be left unfinished. It is most common to use a plain stitched seam with top-stitching or a welt seam for light- to medium-weight felted fabric. But there are many more techniques to choose from, such as the following:

Knits

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Included in this category are:

Creating Texture with Pleats, Tucks, Gathers, Ruffles, and Trims

Sharon Czachor

Source: Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

A variety of knit and stretch woven fabrics used throughout the text have been cut into sample sizes to stitch these techniques. Purchase additional yardage as assigned by the instructor or spurred by curiosity of the designer, ¼ yard minimum. Elastic ⅛″ and ¼″, fusible interfacing, hand sewing thread and needles, and a loop turner are all supplies used in previous chapters. Other supplies will be listed with each technique.

Knitted Fabrics (Swatches 49–69)

Ingrid Johnson, Ajoy K. Sarkar and Allen C. Cohen

Source: J. J.Pizzuto’s Fabric Science. Swatch Kit, 11th Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Fabric Science

Ingrid Johnson, Ajoy K. Sarkar and Allen C. Cohen

Source: J. J.Pizzuto’s Fabric Science. Swatch Kit, 11th Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Designing your own smart textile

Sarah Kettley

Source: Designing with Smart Textiles, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

When working with complex and technological compositions, it is easy to get entangled in time-consuming functional details and thereby lose touch with the overall expression.

Knit Tops

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Source: Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Knit top spec sheets are used for knit garments, including shirts, sweaters, and vests. As you measure, you will find some instances when more than one method can be used for taking a measurement. For example, a knit top’s front length can be measured from the high point shoulder or the center front. Most knit tops are measured from the high point shoulder even though they do not have a front opening. However, there are instances—for example, a tank top—when measuring from the center front is bet

Knit Tops

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Source: Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Knit skirts have become very popular over the last several years, in part due to increasing production costs and customer acceptance of elastic waistbands. Because styling is usually basic, knit skirts are one of the easiest garments to spec. However, there may be times when more than one method of measurement can be used for a measurement point (see Figure 5.1). As the technician, it is up to you to decide which measurement points are best suited to your garment style.

Knit Pants

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Source: Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Measuring knit pants is generally easier than measuring woven pants, in theory, because they often have fewer style features. However, knit pants can be difficult to measure because of bulk in the rise. When measuring the waist and hip areas, line up the waistband at the center front and center back top edges, unless otherwise designed. The crotch/rise curve will not lie flat; simply let it lie in a natural position. When measuring the pant leg, lay one leg flat on the table, gently pushing the o

Knit Dresses

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Source: Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Many knit dresses are simply designed as long versions of T-shirts or sweaters, combining the measurements of a knit top and a knit skirt. For example the tank top dress, which is better measured from the center front rather than the high point shoulder (see Figure 7.1). Remember, the rules you learned for the knit top and knit skirt will be used here as well. If needed, look back over chapters 4 and 5.

Knit Jumpsuits and One-Piece Garments

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Source: Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Knit jumpsuit and one-piece garment specification sheets are common in the children’s wear industries, however this chapter is written for the misses market. Common one-piece garments include bodysuits, one-piece swimsuits, and rompers. Measuring a bodysuit or one-piece garment basically combines the measurement points of a knit top and a knit pant. Notice in the sketch (see Figure 8.1) that a one-piece swimsuit can be measured from point 151c, Front Torso Length, center front at neck to the crot

Sewing with Knits

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: A Guide to Fashion Sewing, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

By studying the information in this chapter, the designer will be able to:

Knitted Fabrics

Ingrid Johnson, Allen C. Cohen and Ajoy K. Sarkar

Source: J.J. Pizzuto’s Fabric Science, 11th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The knitting industry, like the weaving industry, is diverse, creative, and global. While knitting might not be as old a method of producing material as weaving, it is a major type of material in the marketplace. Knitted fabrics are used in a wide range of products, including numerous apparel items, blankets, carpets, upholstery, and sheets. Knit fabrics frequently are used in applications where stretchability, drapability, crease resistance, and wrinkle recovery are needed attributes. Technologi

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